On a gloomy Sunday morning, with the scent of petrichor in the air, the first rain
of the season hits Mandad, a coastal village in Maharashtra. A group of friends
rush to catch the first gift from the ocean. This bounty is taken straight to the
kitchen, seasoned with local spices, and transformed into a memorable meal.
Food is indeed linked to memories, and when prepared for others, it's a transfer of
these memories. The recollections of the individual preparing the food become
the catalyst for creating new memories for those savoring it.
This idea of food and memory is central to Chef Dipesh Shinde's new venture,
Kanyakumari. For Shinde, serving food is more than just presenting a dish. It's a
tangible representation of his cherished memories, from his childhood in a small
coastal village in Maharashtra to countless Sundays spent fishing with friends. His
dishes, rich in flavors of the monsoon seasons on the coast and fresh fish from the
high tides, are his way of transporting you to the vibrant coastal towns of India.
Shinde began his culinary journey at the age of 17. The kitchen became his
learning ground, a place for experimentation and innovation. As he recalls, "Yes, it
may sound cliché, but it's my grandmother who taught me that food isn't linear
and can encapsulate a range of emotions." She was pivotal in developing his
palate, while his father educated him on the technical aspects of cooking. Shinde
sees cooking as an art form balanced with precision. After working with
world-class chefs and leading kitchens at renowned restaurants such as Punjab
Delhi, Farzi Cafe, Kebab aur Sharab, he was inspired to create something truly
personal - a meal that resonates long after the last bite.
Kanyakumari epitomizes Shinde's journey, from his childhood love for seafood to
the knowledge gained from his travels through villages, exploring the intricate
overlap of culture and food. Different states may share a similar coastline, but
their cultures and flavors are distinctly shaped by various factors. For instance, the
Malabar region's culinary traditions are influenced by the Dutch, Arabs, and
Portuguese, characterized by seafood, coconut, and abundant spices. Further
north in the Konkan coast, the flavors are subtler, and the colors more vibrant.
Shinde vividly describes a typical meal - a perfectly fried fish in a rich brown crust,
garnished with vibrant green coriander, served with fluffy white rice, and finished
with soothing pink solkadhi. His love for travel extends beyond mere wanderlust,
with his journeys providing stories of food and the memories they evoke. Back in
India, he visited local markets, sampling spices with stories on the side. At
Kanyakumari, he wants you to experience his memories - the spices are imported
from Kerala and ground in a traditional mortar and pestle.